by Josué Berman, originally published in Nica News 16 (September 1998)

	Fresh air, fresh water, and sunshine: a perfect combination for a pleasant day-trip. Though somewhat out of the way, El Salto is well worth the visit year-round. Photo: Josué Berman.

Although well known in the Estelí area, El Salto Estanzuela is not an obvious tourist attraction. For one thing, the impressive waterfall is hidden in a deep gorge in the countryside west of the city with rock cliffs, old-growth riparian trees, and thick vegetation. Estanzuela is not found unless actively sought. The effort, however, is worth it -"vale la pena", as they say in these parts.

Like many natural attractions in Nicaragua, there are no paved walkways, interpretive placards, park rangers, parking lots, or trash cans. There is, however, a deep, cold, wide swimming hole, a large rock beach, and a beautiful cascade, all smothered in colorful native flora and fauna.

Bees from an enormous hive high up on the cliff dive down to collect water from the stream. Rainbow-colored guardabarrancos, the national bird of Nicaragua, play on the water's edge and near the bright green moss and flowers that flourish behind the falling spray of the water.

Getting there is a beautiful 5 or 6 kilometer hike or drive along a dirt road that turns west off the Pan-American Highway just south of the new hospital. The city bus will take you to the turn-off for a cord-and-a-half from anywhere in Estelí. The road entrance is sandwiched by two pulperías where you can stock up on fruit, crackers, and a gaseosa-in-a-bag for your journey.

The walk takes from an hour to 90 minutes each way and offers plenty of opportunity to converse with the campesinos, observe their farming techniques, and take photos of the beautiful vistas of Estelí. It's a mellow walk, but with lots of up-and-downs. You are going to sweat so carry plenty of water.

Before you reach the hamlet of Estanzuela for which the waterfall is named (a cluster of houses and a school that you can see from the road), look for a gated road on your right at the bottom of a hill, just after the first two ramshackle wooden homes of the hamlet. (You may want to ask one of the kids hanging around for confirmation.) Walk down this road-less-traveled for about ten minutes until it veers steeply down to the left.

Before it bears right, take the path in front of you straight down to the falls. You should be able to hear them by now. The path is steep and might be muddy, but don't worry -you can make it.

Enjoy yourself and remember to pack out your trash (yes, even the banana peels), especially since the number of visitors to the area will increase. For now, it is entirely possible that you'll have the simple beauty of the Estanzuela Falls all to yourself (it's happened to me twice). Make sure you go for a swim behind the falls for a refreshingly cool perspective on Nicaragua.

Before you know it, you'll be sweating along the hike back. Unless, of course, you're able to hop an afternoon truck on its way to sell beans or tomatoes in the Estelí market.