ENTERTAINMENT:
Pasta Fresca
What Marco Polo Missed

by Jack Brown, originally published in Nica News 21 (March 1999)

Seating is divided into two primary areas. The air-conditioned interior seats 32 and the outdoor patio can accommodate 28. The casual ambiance reminds one of a quaint bistro in a small town in northern Italy.

The care they give to the bread and pasta is but a hint of what else is on their menu. Our small group of taste testers included a few traditionalists and others more daring in their culinary preferences. (Personally, I try to stay away from anything bordering on the "weird," but thankfully, I couldn't find anything like that on the menu.)

We began with the house salad and focaccio -wafer thin bread slathered in butter, garlic, and other seasonings. While waiting for the kitchen to prepare the greenery, we sampled some of their appetizers. Everyone was pleased, but not surprised, given the reputation that this locale has earned in just over seven years. The entire selection of antipastos comes highly recommended.

One of our "traditionalists" tried the spaghetti bolognese and commented that the pasta combined with the mild sauce made for a light, healthy meal. Another passed judgement on the Penne alla arrabiata, noting that it had a well-defined taste of fresh tomato with butter and garlic. Another was served the Pizza Quatro Stagioni (a pizza with each quarter containing large portions of either ham, mushrooms, mild chili peppers, or olives. Smiles all round.

I have several favorite Italian dishes, among them veal scaloppini, veal marsala, and roast chicken with spaghetti in a mild sauce. I explained my ideas to the chef and asked him to surprise me. The waiter returned with veal in marsala wine sauce.

Everything was perfect. To the tender and tasty meat, the chef had added a small order of spaghetti seasoned with olive oil and butter. This latter ingredient was a surprise; I have never tasted anything prepared so simply, yet so delicious. When asked about the butter, the manager smiled knowingly and noted that it was prepared in a special manner. He didn't care to explain all that was done to make it so sweet, but he assured me that no sugar or artificial sweeteners were added.

Gorging ourselves on our meals was easy, but everyone in our group saved room for dessert. The menu contained a small selection of pastries and specially prepared delights. In my mind, however, no Italian meal is complete without tiramisu. It was as good as any I have enjoyed recently. One of us ordered the Diplomático de mocha, a coffee-flavored, multi-layered pastry. The top layer was chocolate, so naturally, I had to try it. Coming after a full meal with dessert, this fine pastry made the moment complete.

One critique has to be made. All the main orders did not arrive at the table at the same time. It is frustrating and embarrassing for those who feel obliged to wait for everyone at the table to have their meals before beginning to eat. Speaking with the manager, he assured me this does not happen often and said he would have a "chat" with the kitchen and serving staff. The manager took the criticism in good stride, leaving me with the impression that steps would be taken towards resolving the problem.

The restaurant did not transport any of us back to Italy, yet given the great food, no one felt the need to visit Italy in order to enjoy the tastes from that old country here in Managua.

Pasta Fresca: one and a half blocks east of Sandy's Restaurant on the Carretera Masaya. All major credit cards accepted. Reservations are not required, but recommended if you have a large group or wish to order something not included on the regular menu. Telephone: 278-5644.