TOURISM:
San Rafael del Norte
Cool Town

by Joshua Berman, originally published in Nica News 21 (March 1999)

	"Alas, poor Bessie, wherefore art thee now? The quality of mules is not strange..." Up the creek without a ride, NicaNews wroter Joshua Berman ponders the meaning of life in the slow lane. The countryside around the town of San Rafael del Norte is an adventure in and of itself with its many gullies and swimming holes.

Chances are, one of the things you didn't pack when planning your trip to Nicaragua was a sweater. No worries. San Rafael del Norte boasts three or four third-hand clothing shops with a decent selection of cotton long-sleeves and hoods to help keep you warm during your stay here in Nicaragua's cold zone. That's right: cold, fresca, heladita.

Though the rest of the country may be gagging in dusty heat, San Rafael del Norte, in the department of Jinotega, remains damp, breezy, and, well, chilly (cross your fingers for sunshine). Add that refreshing factor to the most beautiful church in the country, a friendly mountain cowboy flavor, and basic tourist accomodations, and you've got plenty of excuses to make the trip north.

To know San Rafael is to know history. A visit to the General Augusto César Sandino museum (right off the park) gives you a sample of the small town's pride at having served as the proving grounds for the General's legendary battles with the U.S. Marines earlier this century. Sandino's wife was a San Rafaelina, and Nicaraguan folk musician Carlos Mejía Godoy wrote moving lyrics about love and war in Sandino's hills. The Marines, incidentally, recently showed up in town again, this time to help doctors perform special surgery in the local health clinic.

The other outstanding figure in the history of San Rafael is the Italian priest, Father Odorico D'Andrea. From his arrival in 1953 to his death in 1996, Father Odorico achieved virtual sainthood among the people of San Rafael and the surrounding communities. His image, a smiling, warm, obviously kind man in plain brown robes, can be seen in nearly every home, business and vehicle in the town.

"It's so sad," said one community member, "that you weren't here to know him." Among his achievements are a formidable health clinic, a library, several neighborhoods for the poor, and the beautifying of the church.

The latter feat is truly impressive. Pastel-colored windows admit a calming light in which to view the many bright murals, bas-reliefs and shrines. Mention the padre's name to any local and you will immediately gain their friendship.

As time passes, the people of San Rafael speak even more greatly of Father Odorico. Many believe he performed miracles and that his body has not decomposed. You can check for yourself at his resting place, called the Tepeac and located on the hill overlooking the town. Ascending the stairs, you'll pass the Stations of the Cross to where the tomb it situated.

The top of the hill offers shade from an impressively diverse grouping of old trees, as well as gorgeous views of the town and surrounding hills. Virgin pine forests still speckle the countryside, although they were once much thicker.

Being at the headwaters of the watershed, the country around San Rafael abounds with clean water holes. The easiest to access are along the two creeks that meet at the Los Encuentros restaurant, located a ten-minute walk out of town on the road toward Yali.

The more adventurous should hike down into the gorge that runs on the north edge of town. Descend from the Hospedaje Rolinmar and then start upstream. Cold water rushes through a narrow canyon, shady and thick with green vegetation. Other swimming holes exist all around, but you'll have to use your Spanish-language skills to find them.

Also, when hiking across the countryside, stay on the cow paths. A landmine could put a damper on your vacation. Speaking of safety, take extra precautions when travelling in the Jinotega countryside. Random kidnappings and bandits give the area a bit more of that Wild West feel than you may bargain for.

Where to eat and sleep

For excellent grub, Doña Chepita's little pink comedor is as good a place to start as any. She's been cooking typical Nicaraguan food for about 40 years and doesn't plan on quitting "until I can't work anymore." Tasty, clean, and served family style, Chepita has her act together. You can actually cut and chew her carne asada (charcoal grilled beef) without losing any teeth. She even cooks for her mule, dogs, cats, and pigs in the courtyard outside and she's happy to lecture you on being nice to animals. If you're in the mood for a beer though, you'll have to walk on up the street. Chepita has never sold a single "bicha" in her establishment. "I don't believe in it," she says curtly.

Try heading up the block east, or (arriba) to Comedor y Hospedaje Aura, Aura María Ubeda de Rizo, proprietress. They've got your dimly lit bar, a cheap bed, and kickin' enchiladas. Make sure you ask to see their album cover collection in the back room. There's never a dull moment in Nicaraguan interior decorating.

Aura's 15 beds go for about 20 córdobas. The rooms are a little on the grungy side, but urinal cakes hanging in each one keep them smelling plenty fresh. She's a stickler for going to bed early, so no late-night partying.

For more inviting-looking sheets and more night-friendly staff, try the other hospedaje in town, Rolinmar, located on the opposite end of main street, just past the gas station. The rooms are better lit and more airy at roughly the same price. Rolinmar also has an open courtyard with lots of friendly animals, and a comfortable sitting room in front. Make friends with Omar and he'll probably offer to take you hiking, swimming or horseback riding. I tried convincing him to charge for these services, but he would have nothing of it.

Getting there

San Rafael is located in the department of Jinotega, between Estelí and Jinotega. It is less than two hours away from either of these cities by bus, but the schedule seems to be in a constant state of flux. Get to the bus depot early and inquire when the next bus is leaving. There is an express run that leaves daily from the Mayoreo Market Bus Terminal in Managua at 3:00 p.m., arriving around 8:30 p.m. that same day. The same bus runs direct from San Rafael to Managua every day (except Sunday) at 3:30 a.m., and loud merengue music will ensure that you do not get any rest, but you do get to watch the countryside go by.