TOURISM:
Hotel Mancarrón in Solentiname
Get away, get in touch

by Jack Brown, originally published in Nica News 21 (March 1999)

	View from the hotel site to the dock where the hydrofoils will disembark passengers looking to get away from it all. Photo: Immanuel Zerger

The Solentiname archipelago is a collection of small to very small islands in the southeastern portion of Lake Nicaragua. Limited access and a short supply of electricity make these islands an ideal place to get away from it all.

In late January, my family and I visited Hotel Mancarrón on the island of the same name. Our hosts, Immanuel Zerger and his wife, Nubia Arcia, provided us with what I deem to be the most relaxing vacation in my life.

The hotel is located just a few paces from the landing dock on the 2,020 hectare island. Set amid three hectares, bordered by trees, surrounded by the lake and forest, it would be hard to improve on the physical beauty created by Mother Nature.

A view of either the lake or the forest is afforded from all 15 rooms. Each has a spotlessly clean private bath. The linen is fresh, the towels of fine quality, and small touches, like individually wrapped soap, make the visitor feel more welcome. The mattresses were among the most comfortable I've ever slept on. Everything was "just right" with the accommodations.

The restaurant is much like a very large dining room in a private house. The meals are served family-style. Fresh fish, meats and poultry, garden vegetables, fruits and desserts are the order of day. Food is prepared in an eclectic mixture of Nicaraguan and European styles. Every meal was tasty and filling.

Special mention must be made of "Martina," the magnificent scarlet macaw, or lapa, residing in the tree behind the kitchen. She provides an incredible splash of color amid the greenery. The loquacious parrot, "Lorita," makes interesting conversation with all within earshot. Both birds are free to come and go as they please. You wouldn't find anything so magnificent in a cage at the Hotel Mancarrón. Early in the morning (about 7:00 am), you can watch them come down from their perches in their respective trees to enjoy a breakfast prepared by the staff. After seeing them, it's hard to imagine why anyone would want to capture, imprison in a cage, or clip the wings of such wonderful creatures.

The hotel is not just for the birds, however. The well-trained staff is always at hand to see that you want for nothing. The neighbors (reached by stepping through the fence) are as friendly and warm as the staff.

The "new slowness"

	One of the many pre-Colombian carvings that can be found around the islands of the archipielago. Photo: Immanuel Zerger

Part of the pleasure of being joined by others at mealtime (and any other time) is the chance to share views on things large and small. Immanuel introduced me to a concept that he terms "the new slowness." In brief, it is the forced isolation that one endures while waiting for traffic to move along a crowded street or when standing in a long line. People are alone while stuck in a crowd.

On the island, one is brought back to a simpler time, a slower time. Many of us have forgotten how good it is to be alone with agreeable thoughts. Here, a pace enjoyed by earlier generations replaces the "new slowness." As one guest put it, "I'm more in touch with the world by being here -away from it."

Part of the getaway could involve one of the many affordable tours conducted out of the hotel. Fishing trips on the lake or along waterways and island tours by boat and horseback are available. If for some reason you want to see Costa Rica, one tour takes you right to the border where you can look across an imaginary line and view Ticolandia. Many tours come with a guarantee: if you don't see animals from the boat, you will get a refund. (Immanuel claims he has never had to make one.)

A new, very special tour takes you to nearby islands where you'll meet some of the many artists who live and work there. If you ask, you will be shown albums of their paintings and the trophies and plaques they have won. Because symbolism is important in the plastic arts, many artists will explain exactly what they were depicting on the canvas. This added immeasurable pleasure to my tour.

The Hotel Mancarrón can get you back in touch with the world. Furthermore, the splendid relaxing atmosphere, fine service and Mother Nature will refresh and prepare you for a return to the life that you come here to escape.

Contact the hotel through their Managua office (265-2716).

Getting to Solentiname

Fly La Costeña Airlines to San Carlos. Once there, the launch sent by the hotel will pick you up. If you have time, check in with María Amelia Gross at the La Costeña office there. She is a fountain of information and can give you good advice on almost anything to do with the region.

María Amelia typifies the type of hospitality for which Nicaragua is justifiably famous. She takes pride in the town of about 15,000 inhabitants but, as she is quick to point out, "There isn't much to do here. Most of our visitors work with the non-governmental organizations in the area. They come, hop on a boat, and go to the islands or to secluded spots along the San Juan River."

Acting as part information center and friend to the community, she can arrange passage to almost anywhere within range of the small boats that ply the lake and the rivers. "I don't make any money doing this; but I like to help. It's just part of the extra service my office can offer."

To get to Hotel Mancarrón by water, go to the dock near Granada at El Diamante, and catch the Belorussian hydrofoil operated by Milton Arcía's Empresa de Transporte. The ferry is scheduled to begin regular service from Granada to San Carlos to Mancarrón by the end of March. The ride aboard the newly overhauled and refitted boat will take about two hours. Onboard service includes a snack bar, bar, TV, and music. The fare is 170 córdobas one way. Contact the boat service at 277-5354, 278-8190 or email milton@ibw.com.ni. La Costeña flies for San Carlos daily. It departs Managua at 9 a.m. except on Fridays and on Sundays it leaves at 12:30 p.m. The round trip will cost you $C695. For reservations you may call them at 263-1228, 236-2142/44.